There is an inland village in the county of Clare called Kilaroe. And it is not really a village so much as a post office and a primary school, a pub and a two pump garage with attached mini-market, shared between the town-lands of Alva and Rahaniska. The post office has been the subject of a continuous row since 1992 – a row that has made the national phone-in shows and once the television news – and the public windows are footnoted with posters demanding it be saved, and insisting that everyone, everyone, needs to cherish rural Ireland.
When I was a boy holidaying every year on the coast nearby, there were stories about a house in Kilaroe. The house was about a mile from the village, in Alva, an usual part of Clare packed with dense small hills where little woods nestle in the dips, and bits of streams cough and splutter by the roads like wounds. It’s not like Clare at all.
The house was a bungalow, or it was an ordinary two storey. It was a 1950s purpose build of peculiar design with secret rooms and tunnels into the fields, or it was an old farmhouse from famine times, converted and expanded. It had been occupied since 1947, or 1956, or 1963, by a foreign couple who were said to have at least two sons, possibly three. The rumours changed as I grew older. Or rather, as I grew older I was admitted further along the path of suspicion, trusted with more complicated articulations of what was basically distrust.
What I first heard was that it was a haunted house. That ghostly figures could be seen at the windows. Strange sounds emanated from it at night – howls and screams and silences. Then I was told about a murder. One of the sons had killed a girl in the attic. Or in the kitchen. Or he had killed a boy. Or he had killed one of his brothers, and hence the confusion about their number. And maybe it was haunted, and maybe it wasn’t, but it was a house of evil, and you could feel the pulse of it if you walked by on the road. Then when I was in my early teens I heard that all of that was nonsense, deliberately put about to scare off the children, and that the house was a brothel, that a red light burned in an upstairs window, and there were no sons, just “daughters”, and the place was notorious but discreet and tolerated, even valued. A year or so later, and that theory seemed immature, silly, naive. The man of the house was a criminal. But he was no mere brothel keeper. He was a big, international criminal. He was a smuggler, obviously, but also a counterfeiter and jewel thief. He was wanted by police forces all over the world, but who would think to look in Co. Clare? But no, that was nonsense too. That was movie nonsense. He was an IRA man. He wasn’t a foreigner at all, he was from Ennis, and he was one of the men behind Guildford, and Birmingham, and he had slipped out the door at Balcombe Street and there was a bomb factory in the barn, and sometimes cars arrived from the north in the early hours and hooded men were bundled into the house and later, shots could be heard in the woods.
When I was about seventeen I heard that the man was a Nazi. At first I think he was supposed to be a Nazi like the ones in The Odessa File and The Boys From Brazil . He had the a swastika button on the reverse of his lapel. A portrait of the Führer hung over the fireplace. He plotted long into the night about how to get it right next time. But the story mellowed over the years. He was an old man. An old fugitive. He had changed his name and he lived like a recluse and his wife was a haunted woman and they were prisoners of their own fear and shame and so much time had passed and how could such things be addressed, here of all places, and really they were only to be pitied.
Much later, I heard that he’d died. And that his widow had sold the house and returned to Germany, where she had lived another couple of years somewhere in Bavaria, and that one of the sons still visited Clare every summer and could often be seen swimming in the Pollock Holes in Kilkee, where the wags called him Adolf, which he didn’t seem to mind.
I believed every version of the story about the house. Every version seemed completely convincing and true until I heard the one that superseded it. The last story I heard was that he was a Nazi, and I have sought no further clarification. I like the idea. I like the idea of an old Nazi living out his life in a peculiar house in a quiet and peculiar place on the edge of Europe, baffled and ashamed or defiant and bitter – it doesn’t really matter. Clare is a place that reels from terrible things, so old that they are barely named, so hard to imagine that they survive by haunting, and there is nowhere in its landscape that is not infused with oddness and a quiet sleepy violence – a delicious sort of threat. And it is an impossible fact but whatever happened here happened everywhere, and whatever happened everywhere happened here, and so it is with books, and so it is with stories and rumours and the past.
When you swim in the Pollock Holes you can see a lip of rocks at eye level, and beyond you can see the Atlantic and its waves and the cliffs in the distance and storms passing north or south on the horizon, and it is all colossal, and you can feel – it is possible to feel – either that you are nothing at all, or that you are lucky.